the swan of avon*
In the latest instalment of my 'Visit Famous Writers' Homes - in the hopes that some magic writing dust will fall onto my shoulders', I took a trip to Shakespeare's Birth Place.
After my summer outings to Virginia Woolf's home, Monk's House, and Vita Sackville-West's stately pile at Sissinghurst, I finally ticked Stratford Upon Avon, birth place and life long home to William Shakespeare, off my bucket list. I mean, if you want to sweet-talk the writing muse then you really have to visit the stomping ground of the OG and Godfather of writing, don't you?
I thought Stratford Upon Avon was a complete delight. From the narrow cobbled streets, flanked with Tudor buildings, to the large open grassy areas full of broadleaved trees, beside the slow running River Avon, there is something of interest around every corner. The huge theatre that is home to the Royal Shakespeare Company. Bronze statues of Lady Macbeth, King Hal, and Hamlet. Buskers quoting The Bard's sonnets, or acting out famous scenes from the plays. A bevy of swans-a-swimming (Bevy being one of a number of collective nouns for swans when they are on the water). The school where young William was educated in Latin and Greek. A churchyard wherein two rowan trees, with plaques at their bases, are to be found commemorating twins Judith and Hamnet, two of William and Anne's three children - the twins were probably buried, many years apart, in that graveyard though their final resting places are unmarked. And then there's the Holy Trinity Church itself, where William would have worshipped as a boy, and where he was laid to rest with Anne, and several other family members.
And there's much, much more to see. Like I say, something of interest around every corner.
But the icing on the cake was the 'One Ticket To See Them All' pass that gave me access to Shakespeare's Birth Place (where he was born, and then later lived when he first married Anne Hathaway), New Place (the home he bought later on, after he'd made his fortune in London nb the home itself is no longer there. Parts of it still exist but aren't accessible to the public, but you can still wander around the gardens) and Anne Hathaway's Cottage (where Anne was raised and lived up until the time she married William). Nothing makes me happier than nosing around the home of an incredibly famous historical person, especially if they were a writer, and trying to imagine them living their everyday life in the room in which I'm now standing. I mean, I walked across the same, highly polished, flagstone floors that he once did. I got to admire his choice of wallpaper, and marvel at the intricate 'rope hammock' set-up, instead of bedsprings, that supported William and Anne while they slept every night.
I can fully recommend a visit to Stratford Upon Avon. There is so much to take in and be intrigued by. If you have even a passing interest in William Shakespeare, or his work. Or if you've read, and loved, Hamnet by Maggie O'Farrell and want to get more of an insight into Anne's life, then do make time for a visit. I don't think you'll be disappointed.
Did I get sprinkled with any of that magic writing dust while I was there? Probably not. But I did feel very inspired by what I saw and learned. And the boat trip down the peaceful river was a real balm to an anxious mind. I can highly recommend that too.
*Ben Jonson (poet/playwright and Shakespeare contemporary) made reference to The Man in a poem, calling him The Swan of Avon.
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